<div dir="ltr"><div>In my Learn to Solder gatherings and mentoring, I have had prints of this article available for several years now. I need to agree with some of the discussion points though, and disagree with one:</div><div><ul><li>Braided Solder Wick almost always comes with some impregnated rosin flux (not "resin" BTW), otherwise the surface corrosion on the copper would not allow the molten solder flow onto it. Remember what I always say in my Learn-to-Solder workshops -- solder wants to go where it is hot and clean via capillary action. Without flux, the braid would not be clean enough. Also remember what else I say in my workshops -- solder wants to flow and go where there is more surface area. Thats how braided copper works -- it has more surface area than where the part is soldered to.<br><br></li><li>I agree using a finer tip works better for surface mount work, but you will also have to up the temperature a little bit to make up for the lesser heating surface to transfer the same amount of heat.<br><br></li><li>Liquid flux is your friend for surface mount work! Just don't over-do it because you don't want charred flux taking all your heat and preventing solder flow.<br><br></li><li>I have on thumb-drive and over at SplatSpace a couple of other videos that I think are better for surface-mount work. One is from the institute that offers certification exams for getting a job soldering. They also have practice kits available (same ones I bring to my workshops). I'll dig up links to them and followup here.<br></li></ul></div><div></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jan 22, 2019 at 5:52 PM Robert Gasiorowski via TriEmbed <<a href="mailto:triembed@triembed.org">triembed@triembed.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">Some wicks are coated with resin flux, so they are messy. You would have to get bare copper wick and use liquid flux.<div>Still, I wouldn't suggest using wick to anyone without experience. Drop of liquid flux will do the trick.</div><div>8 or 6 mil traces can be easily damaged when desoldering with iron, especially when PCB is poor quality (plenty of them lately.)</div><div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jan 22, 2019 at 3:33 PM Brian via TriEmbed <<a href="mailto:triembed@triembed.org" target="_blank">triembed@triembed.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">On 1/22/19 3:13 PM, Robert Gasiorowski via TriEmbed wrote:<br>
> I would have to disagree with few things in that article.<br>
> [...]<br>
> I would never use wick to remove solder from SMD components, leaves <br>
> resin and you can easily overheat traces. Flux works wonders for <br>
> soldering and removal of excess of solder.<br>
<br>
Resin? I'm not sure what resin you're referring to. Wick is just a <br>
braid of copper; nothing else (well, some are pre-impregnated with flux, <br>
but in my experience that is never enough flux). As far as overheating, <br>
I've never had a problem with that as long as there's plenty of flux and <br>
a well-tinned tip to ensure proper heat transfer.<br>
<br>
At any rate, flux and wick together is almost magic in its ability to <br>
act like a solder vacuum. Hooray for capillary action!<br>
<br>
Afterwards, a quick wipe with an isopropyl-moistened q-tip is all you <br>
need to clean up the excess flux.<br>
<br>
-Brian<br>
<br>
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</blockquote></div><br clear="all"><br>-- <br><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature">Scott G. Hall<br>Raleigh, NC, USA<br><a href="mailto:scottghall1@gmail.com" target="_blank">scottghall1@gmail.com</a></div>