<div dir="ltr">Brain,<div><br></div><div>The popcorn poppers often use a secondary heating coil as a dropping resistor to drop the incoming AC line voltage down to the voltage needed by the motor. The four diodes around the motor power terminals make a full wave bridge rectifier to convert the now lower voltage AC to DC to drive the motor. There is no filter capacitor after the full-wave bridge so the motor is getting pulsed DC, but the motor doesn't care. The inductance of the motor and the rotating mass do serve to smooth the current a little. </div><div><br></div><div>Shane</div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr">On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 10:38 AM Brian via TriEmbed <<a href="mailto:triembed@triembed.org">triembed@triembed.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">> I measured around 16 volts DC going into the motor. It was increasing slowly as the motor warmed up. Started around 15.9 Volts. Does that help?<br>
<br>
Sounds like you're in good shape to run it off a DC power supply like in <br>
the article. If the popper's own DC power supply is isolated, you could <br>
just use it. Note that there's a high chance it isn't isolated.<br>
<br>
> It looks like there are two diodes in series attached to each motor terminal.<br>
<br>
So.. diode-diode-motor-diode-diode? Hm. What's between that and the <br>
AC power input? It's not critical, but now you've got me curious...<br>
<br>
> Do I need to disassemble it more to learn something else?<br>
<br>
Probably not, but now *I* want to disassemble it more! ha<br>
<br>
<snip><br>
<br>
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