<div dir="ltr">I find good looking solder joints depend more on my solder selection than my iron temperature. I get more smooth, shinny joints faster when I use Kester 44 in 63/37 solder in 0.031". The Sn63 solder solidifies quicker and leaves less time for wiggling the parts and getting a cold joint. A tool box size tube of thicker solder can be handy for large gauge wire or heavy connectors. The larger solder on my bench is 60/40.<div><br></div><div>A few years ago I fell victim to hubris and starting using a spool of lead-free solder that was on hand when I ran out of Kester 44. Soon I became frustrated and began to worry that I had lost my ability to solder! I understand that lead-free solders have improved greatly in the years since but I am still reluctant to use them.<div><br><div>The Kester website has great information on soldering. The notes below are from the the "Hand Soldering" section of their Knowledge-base.</div><div><br></div><div><a href="http://www.kester.com/knowledge-base/">http://www.kester.com/knowledge-base/</a></div><div><br></div><div><h4 style="margin:10px 0px;font-family:Helvetica,Helvetica,sans-serif;line-height:20px;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:17.5px">Sn60 vs. Sn63</h4><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Helvetica,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14px;line-height:20px">When is the use of one of these two alloys more appropriate than the other? The Sn60Pb40 has a plastic range and puts down a slightly thicker coating of solder. Sn60 is often preferred for lead tinning and other solder coating applications. Sn63Pb37 is eutectic and as such has no plastic range. Generally it flows better than the Sn60 and is the preferred alloy for wave soldering and surface mount applications.</span><hr style="margin:20px 0px;border-right-width:0px;border-left-width:0px;border-top-style:solid;border-top-color:rgb(238,238,238);border-bottom-style:solid;border-bottom-color:rgb(255,255,255);color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Helvetica,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14px;line-height:20px"><h4 style="margin:10px 0px;font-family:Helvetica,Helvetica,sans-serif;line-height:20px;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:17.5px">“44″ Flux Residues</h4><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Helvetica,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14px;line-height:20px">The question is frequently asked are “44″ flux residues harmful to an assembly. The “44” flux residues are non-conductive and non-corrosive. Residue removal would normally be for cosmetic reasons. If the assembly is in a heated environment and sees temperatures of over 160°F the flux residues will re-melt. When liquid (at high temperatures) the residues are conductive.</span><hr style="margin:20px 0px;border-right-width:0px;border-left-width:0px;border-top-style:solid;border-top-color:rgb(238,238,238);border-bottom-style:solid;border-bottom-color:rgb(255,255,255);color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Helvetica,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14px;line-height:20px"><h4 style="margin:10px 0px;font-family:Helvetica,Helvetica,sans-serif;line-height:20px;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:17.5px">Tip Temperatures</h4><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Helvetica,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14px;line-height:20px">What is the recommended soldering iron tip temperature? When hand soldering with a rosin flux such as the Kester #44 or the # 285 the recommended iron tip temperature is 750°F. If you are soldering with a low residue no-clean solder such as the #245 or # 275 we recommend a tip temperature of 600-650°F.</span><br></div></div></div><div><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Helvetica,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14px;line-height:20px"><br></span></div><div><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Helvetica,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14px;line-height:20px">Shane</span></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sat, Jul 18, 2015 at 11:48 PM, Robert Gasiorowski via TriEmbed <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:triembed@triembed.org" target="_blank">triembed@triembed.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">I keep mine at 775F.<div><br><div>For everyday soldering, through hole (including headers) and SMD, I use 1/32" long tip and either 0.020" or 0.031" solder.</div><div>For super small jobs, 1/64" long tip and 0.020" solder.</div><div>For extra large components, I use 1/16" short tip and 0.031" solder.</div></div></div><div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5"><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sat, Jul 18, 2015 at 10:47 PM, Brian via TriEmbed <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:triembed@triembed.org" target="_blank">triembed@triembed.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">A too-cool iron is like a dull knife; much more likely to damage something. I keep my iron at 320 C typically, and it seems to handle most situations. I'll bump it to 350 or so if I'm trying to solder something with a lot of thermal mass (such as a large ground plane on a circuit board).<br>
<br>
Wave solder specs on datasheets can be a good place to go for info on through-hole parts. The spec will most likely be too low to be practical, because it's presuming a lot of things already being hot (the solder is already melted and the boards are preheated), so you'll need your iron to be hotter than that, but you can at least get some amount of idea. If the spec says 270 C for 30 seconds, you're probably in good shape with a 320 C iron taking about five seconds for each joint.<span><br>
<br>
<br>
On 7/18/2015 8:06 PM, Carl Nobile via TriEmbed wrote:<br>
</span><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><span>
John,<br>
<br>
This can be controversial. We had a speaker at a meeting sometime ago<br>
that recommended 370C (700F). I actually do this myself, but some people<br>
think it's way too hot. The hotter the iron the faster you have to move,<br>
but a hot iron will generally make better connection IMHO.<br>
<br>
Carl<br>
<br>
<br>
On Sat, Jul 18, 2015 at 7:40 PM, John Rock via TriEmbed<br></span>
<<a href="mailto:triembed@triembed.org" target="_blank">triembed@triembed.org</a> <mailto:<a href="mailto:triembed@triembed.org" target="_blank">triembed@triembed.org</a>>> wrote:<br>
<br>
I have a basic question about soldering.____<br>
<br>
__ __<span><br>
<br>
Using 60/40 solder (mp is 374°F, 0.032” diameter) to attach headers<br></span>
to a PCB.____<br>
<br>
__ __<span><br>
<br>
The digital soldering iron (Hakko) can be set to any temperature<br></span>
between way too low and 900°F.____<br>
<br>
__ __<br>
<br>
I know it needs to be *substantially* hotter (>600°F) than the<span><br>
solder melting point, but what is a good temperature setting for<br></span>
this type of work?____<br>
<br>
__ __<span><br>
<br>
Beyond a simple answer, is there a good guide somewhere for future<br></span>
reference?____<br>
<br>
__ __<br>
<br>
Thanks.____<br>
<br>
__ __<br>
<br>
John Rock____<br>
<br>
__ __<span><br>
<br>
<br>
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<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue-Light,'Helvetica Neue Light','Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,'Lucida Grande',sans-serif;font-size:16px">A blog about some of my projects. <a href="http://fettricks.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">http://fettricks.blogspot.com/</a></span><br></div></div>
</div>